Dennis C.
Yelp
The Imperial Palace was founded by owners Mira and David Browning in 1998 and is located in the Kempsville Marketplace at the intersection of Princess Anne Road and Baxter Road. Sadly, David passed away in January of last year, leaving Mira as the sole owner.
Before the Imperial Palace, they both operated the Szechuan Garden that was located by Lynnhaven Mall. This was a local chain whose locations closed years ago.
The Imperial Palace has legions of loyal fans who swear it is the best Chinese restaurant in all of Hampton Roads. For whatever it's worth, it has also been winning the Best Of The Beach and various other awards for years.
The cuisine at the Imperial Palace falls more into the category of American Chinese than authentic Chinese. Yet the distinction between the two can often be blurred.
For example, the red chili peppers we associate with Szechuan cuisine did not originate from China. Instead, they originated from Mesoamerica, a historical region that extended from what is now Central Mexico to Northern Costa Rica and date back more than 7,000 years.
The red chili pepper did not arrive in China until the 16th century through various Portuguese trade routes. They didn't enter the kitchens of China until a century or two later.
Therefore, what we now call authentic Szechuan cuisine today has solid roots in the Americas of the New World.
The words "Elegant Chinese Dining" are etched on their front door. As you enter, you see two large dining rooms with one at the left and the other at the right.
The decor delivers a feel of antique style elegance. Private booths with curtains are available. Their plates and bowls are etched with a classic blue willow pattern.
The lighting strikes my eyes as overly dim. Red spotlights on the ceiling cast a reddish tint I find unappealing. I prefer a brighter look.
One sign of an American style Chinese restaurant are the utensils. Each place setting here consists of a metal knife, fork, and spoon. You have to ask for chopsticks. I saw no Chinese soup spoons.
Another sign are the table condiments, which consist here of soy sauce, salt, and pepper. Many authentic Chinese restaurants display black vinegar and chili oil instead.
Their lunch menus are limited and merely list their dishes without descriptions. I tried the following during three lunch visits:
KUNG PAO CHICKEN: This is a basic Americanized style Kung Pao Chicken, a dish of diced chicken and peanuts that originated from the Sichuan province in China.
The distinctive ingredient of the authentic version is the Sichuan peppercorn. When I asked my server if their version was prepared with the Sichuan peppercorn, she didn't seem to know. I ordered it anyway.
The numbing tingling sensation of the Sichuan peppercorn was absent, which answered my question. It was only slightly spicy and a bit saucy for my tastes. The taste of the chicken and peanuts came through fine. My Rating: 3.5 Stars.
MA PO TOFU: I ordered this for lunch on New Year's Day, when they presented their much larger dinner menu with an actual description: "Fresh Chunks Of Chinese Bean Curd in a Hot, Spicy, Garlic, and Ginger Sauce."
The lighting was especially dark and red on this day, so much so that I could not tell what I was looking at when it arrived. I had to edit my photo to see the tofu.
Authentic versions of this dish come with a reddish brown sauce. This one was mostly a mud brown. The hot, spicy, garlic, and ginger flavors as described did not come through for me.
The tofu was well formed with a firm, and spongy texture without breaking apart. Overall, this dish was still a disappointment. My Rating: 2 Stars.
SHREDDED BEEF SZECHUAN STYLE: This one was composed of stir fried beef slices with assorted julienned vegetables and some type of mild hot sauce.
Although labeled as a Szechuan dish, authentic versions include actual red chili peppers, and this one did not. Its overall flavor was satisfactory enough, but with a slightly oily aftertaste. My Rating: 3.5 Stars.
HONG STYLE WONTON SOUP: This was a small serving, topped with crispy rice and with more veggies than actual dumplings. The bok choy was crispy and colorful.
It came with a bowl of fried wonton chips, which I used to enjoy at American Chinese restaurants growing up with duck sauce and hot mustard included. Neither one was provided.
The broth imparted a weak and shallow depth of flavor. Consuming it with a metal spoon instead of a Chinese soup spoon was a turn-off. My Rating: 3 Stars.
The service was generally friendly and satisfactory, but also a bit slow and lethargic at times.
The Imperial Palace remains as a popular choice for those who favor American Chinese cuisine over authentic Chinese cuisine.
As for myself, I do not feel inspired to return. I am drawn to a more authentic style of Chinese cuisine.
In all fairness, and with a spirit of consolation, my 3-star rating is still a passing grade.
