David J.
Yelp
No trip to Prague would be complete without a visit to the Josefov, or Old Jewish Quarter. Arguably Europe's most complete example of a Jewish ghetto, this tiny area contains many old buildings, including synagogues, a cemetery and houses, most of which are now part of a unified museum.
History
The origins of the Jewish quarter go back to early mediaeval times, possibly as early as the 10th century: the earliest pogrom is certainly recorded there around 1096. In the 13th century a walled ghetto was established, and relatively enlightened local administrators granted it a degree of self-government in 1292.
This didn't stop regular pogroms, however, although the ghetto also became prosperous. In the latter half of the 18th century, formal toleration of the Jews enabled them to live outside the ghetto, and it gradually declined. Much was rebuilt during the 19th and early 20th century, so the claustrophobic streets which once housed nearly 20,000 people no longer exist.
However, a selection of buildings did survive, and a Jewish Museum was established here in 1906 to save the remaining buildings and artefacts. Miraculously, it survived the Nazi occupation of Prague during World War II; although closed to the public in 1939, the Nazis established their own 'Central Jewish Museum' in 1942, to which artefacts from other, liquidated Jewish quarters were shipped, supposedly to form a museum to what they intended to be an extinct race. It is a supreme irony, then, that the museum is now a celebration of Jewish culture and the history of the ghetto.
The museum
The museum comprises: the Maisel Synagogue, Spanish Synagogue, Pinkas Synagogue, the Old Jewish Cemetery, the Klausen Synagogue and the Ceremonial Hall, together with an education centre, gallery, library and coffee shop. All the buildings are located within a five minute walk of each other in the Josefov district.
The exhibitions in the various buildings cover the life and development of the ghettos, a wide range of artefacts from Jewish religion and daily life, and - most heart rending of all - in the Pinkas Synagogue, the walls are inscribed with the names of the 80,000 Czech victims of the holocaust.
There is also an equally harrowing, yet strangely touching, exhibition of drawings made by dozens of children who were interned the Terezín transit camp from 1941 to 1945. This was the result of a deliberate policy by the inmates to make life for the children as 'normal' as possible, and included school lessons as well as recreational activities such as drawing.
The images, by children as young as 5, portray life within the camps, such as Nazi guards, other inmates and more usual subjects such as family members, the changing seasons and animals. Most of the children died subsequently in the Concentration camps. It's the sort of place that everyone should visit at least once.
Practicalities
You can buy a combined ticket for all the sites, or one that also includes the Old New Synagogue (which is otherwise administered separately). Any of the individual buildings will sell tickets.
Many of the buildings do not have level access, and on busy days (most notably Sunday, when weekend visitors are in town) the individual buildings can get claustrophobically packed. Avoid Sundays (it's not open on Saturday) and try and get there early in summer. The nearest metro is Starémêstá.