Ben S.
Yelp
My review isn't necessarily about the venue, because there's no shortage of others telling you how awesome it is.
This review is about the FOOD, because the Kessler has hired a new chef, making this historic theater one of the coolest places to nosh in Bishop Arts. Their chef is something of a celebrity, he was on MasterChef with Gordon Ramsay. (Same show I was on, but a different season.) He has created a really fun, quirky menu of upscale bar food that makes this a great place to drop in for yummies and drinks in the evening, or you can simply plan to eat your dinner at the venue before or during the concert or event you're attending there.
**YOU DO NOT have to have a concert ticket to sit at the bar or order food unless it's a crazy sold-out show and you arrive right when everyone is in line. So stop in any time. They're open Thursday, Friday, and Saturday nights...sometimes other nights if there's a concert or special event. Ask nicely at the door and 9 times out of 10, they'll let you in.**
The menu runs the gamut from organic popcorn with Tunisian olive oil, Parmigiano-Reggiano and Tellicherry black pepper (which Lisa Loeb recently announced to the audience that it was the best popcorn she had EVER eaten), to caprese skewers with fresh basil, San Marzano tomatoes, and little balls of fresh mozz from Paula Lambert's Dallas Mozzarella Co, and they are served with this burnt-garlic balsamic sauce that I would literally BATHE in if I could. That stuff is heaven. Mel at the bar could make drinks with it, it's so good. There's also pork belly sliders that are TO DIE FOR, served on artisan bread from Empire Bakery, with slow-roasted pork belly with Asian spices and housemade radish pickles. (Again, a condiment that I could eat an entire plate of. Divine.)
My two favorite things on the menu are the Brussels sprouts and the fritters. The Brussels sprouts are like crack...flash fried so that they're crispy on the outside and crisp-tender in the middle, and bathed in this amazing sauce that seems almost Thai in its influence. He calls it "fish caramel" and all the big-city chefs are creating their own versions of it right now. You'll be licking every last bit of it off your fingers, it's sweet, salty, complex, and aromatic with fresh herbs...I'm guess basil and mint, but I could be wrong. It's a closely guarded secret, apparently.
Then there are the Gruyere fritters. I don't know how he does it, but these little balls of wonderment are served steaming hot and are crisp on the outside, like toasty cheese, but practically hollow on the inside. He serves them with a house-made onion jam that is sweet but tangy with whole grain mustard seed. I could eat my weight in them.
Perhaps best of all, the menu is priced along the same lines as FAST FOOD. Seriously. The pork belly sliders are the most expensive thing on the menu, and they're $7. !!COME ON!! I have no idea how he does it, but he insists that he has a commitment to fresh, local foods, he's just keeping everything simple, keeps the menu small but perfect, and wants the food to be approachable in price for anyone in the neighborhood. (I wish more Dallas chefs were like that!!!)
Sometimes the chef has a special based on what he can find locally, so be sure to ask. Again, I have to stress that anyone can stop by for a drink at the bar and a bite to eat without having to have a ticket to an event, unless it's a major act that has sold out, so this makes the Kessler a fabulously quirky spot for neighborhood locals and folks headed to Bishop Arts to poke around. I live in Lewisville but I find myself at the Kessler several times a month, just because I love the atmosphere, Mel at the bar is incredible (and she has Stone IPA!!!), and now with the amazing menu, this place is unstoppable. I can't rate it highly enough.