Rod U.
Yelp
Michelin one star? Me thinks not.
Any star from the Michelin Guide denotes a restaurant that delivers an unparalleled dining experience. From the sophistication of the food, its presentation, setting and service. All should be near flawless and representative of the culture.
The Kitchin prides itself on outstanding sourcing of ingredients but combined in a way that makes none stand out. Perhaps it is the intended goal, but having tried numerous "regular" eateries in Scotland prior to the Michelin meal, I never experienced blended flavors. Don't get me wrong, the food is plenty good just uncharacteristic of a restaurants so dedicated to ingredients.
The meal opens with an assortment of crisp flat bread wafers with a creamy bleu cheese dip. Some with laver, others with squid ink. A fun opening act.
The prestarter, a small serving of seafood veloute with raw root veg and bright acidity ready's the palate for more.
To the starters. Gigas oysters prepared six ways. Raw, outstanding and showcasing the incredible clean flavor. Cooked as a Rockefeller, smoked, cut up and mixed with root veg, in a Asian sauce, etc were good on their own but the subtle goodness of the oyster is lost. A hand dived Orkney scallop baked in shell with white wine, vermouth and a wild herb, butter sauce, vibrant and sweet. Steaming keeps the scallop tender. Somewhat over seasoned.
For mains, a very good monkfish tail wrapped in pancetta, served with barely cooked through squid, pan roasted potatoes, foraged mushrooms and scallion with a seaweed sauce. The Scottish affinity for pairing mushrooms with Seafood continues to impress in its ability to bring out the natural flavors. The only weakness, the pancetta overpowers the delicate fish.
The lobster stuffed with squid, pancetta, assorted squash and braised fennel, and finished with an escargot butter, outstanding. Incredible sweetness harmonizes perfectly with the anise flavor of the fennel. The escargot butter's richness and slight earthiness adds incredible back flavors and surprising umame. Incredible.
The only true mistake, the lobster "risotto". Sweet, perfectly cooked lobster claw and tail served in a "risotto" of potato in a VERY salty seafood broth. Impossible to eat. Dish sent back and a replacement, simple, off the menu lobster dish replaced it.
A richly flavored pistachio soufflé with chocolate ganache and chocolate chip ice cream, whisky, and petit fours rounds out the meal.
Service; German efficiency. Never slowing, never stopping. Friendly but not providing the relaxed atmosphere one expects for a 3 hour meal.
The wine list is good but lacks in vintage depth. Prices are very fair with the average bottle price £100.
Overall, reasonable, with dinner for three inclusive of drinks and service, £490.
Three month advance booking required. Credit card to warranty reservation.
Somewhat disappointed by the hype. Eclipsed by the chef's other Michelin eatery, Castle Terrace.