Gary I.
Yelp
I recall that the hotel bar when it was owned by the Montage was closer to the restaurant and far more spacious and refined. Now the bar is near the reception counter, much smaller, cramped and looking rather makeshift and provisional.
The friendly, convivial bar manager mentioned that the original bar was being renovated, and that the present space is temporary. But I'm wondering why not have retained the old Montage Bar when it was perfectly fine, and the Maybourne would have a sophisticated, working bar immediately upon taking over?
Anyway, hope that the new, renovated Maybourne bar will be at least as chic as the one that was the Montage bar.
Started by ordering Roku Japanese Gin with its own proprietary blend of herbs which was refreshing, rich in velvety mouthfeel, smooth, mellow sweetness, complementary aromatic fragrances. The crystal clear cube of ice added to its look of purity.
One can order from the restaurant menu:
1) Their vaunted Fried Chicken is breast meat chicken "fingers". Breast meat, which is often dry and mealy, is moist from brining or a light marinade.
"13 spice blend" was not particularly evident. Covered in crispy Japanese Panko bread crumbs, fried, drizzled with what seems like aged Aceto Balsamico & finely chopped chives. Accompanying agrodolce emulsified sauce on the side.
Not bad for chicken fingers, but at $28 a pop, it must help pay for the $450 million purchase price paid by Maybourne.
2) Marquis de Chocolat: " with sour cherry ice cream, whipped amaretto ganache, smoked bitter chocolate sauce". Nice sweet-sour combination of fruity, chocolatey, creamy, almond. Pretty presentation for $18. There is even a pairing of Niepoort 'LBV' Ruby Port 2017 for $13, but I thought sweet on sweet was too much for me that night.
There is a cramped, claustrophobic feeling to this Maybourne bar which I hope will change with the opening of the new bar.
Also, the pre-Pandemic Montage had well seated bartenders who had a more confident, hail-fellow-well-met demeanor that was more engaging. As the new Maybourne staff matures, perhaps there will be a more open, warm hospitality that will be formed. The manager is a good start.
3+ stars