Jane D.
Yelp
I'm not sure I'd travel a huge distance out of my way to dine here, but as lazy schmucks who found this restaurant exceedingly convenient, we ended up dining here (or having food from there delivered pool / beach side) far too frequently. The restaurant replaced Andrew Carmellini's The Dutch in 2019 or 2020, after its ten year run (and an Italian American restaurant before that, IIRC). It wasn't initially high on our bookmarked list of places to try, to be honest -- but we were happily surprised by almost everything we had.
The "Italian" ceviche (blood orange and lime marinated corvina, cherry tomatoes, capers, olives, oregano, Calabrian chili; $22) was excellent, probably among the best ceviche preparations we've had in South Beach in recent years. The fish was evenly medium diced with all tough fibers removed and I always appreciate the great knife work that goes into this. It was perfectly marinated (neither over- nor under "cooked" in acid), well balanced and tender, not at all fishy. We had this multiple times, and even prepared for poolside consumption, this was attractively plated.
The tuna tartare (capers, lemon olive oil, shallot, cucumber carpaccio; $24) was the best we tried on our recent trip. I'm not sure whether there's some nefarious culinary trend towards gross overdressing going on in the area, but this was the only version (of many spendy versions) we tried in the Miami region this time that included truly fresh tuna, left unadulterated enough to taste. The fish was enhanced by gently lemon-infused olive oil, served with puffed rice or rice and prawn crackers. There was some sort of thick, orange-colored sauce on the side, but it was easy to ignore.
Insalata della casa (field greens, shaved garden vegetables, citrus, white balsamic dressing, goat cheese; $19) included simply, not overwhelmingly, dressed, impeccably fresh vegetables (including cucumbers, radish, carrot), the slightest touch of chevre. Fine, not something I'd write home about.
The meatballs (beef and pork; pomodoro sauce, whipped ricotta cheese; $18) were fair, made very firm rather than loose, but they still soaked in enough of the good tomato sauce to be enjoyable.
A side of broccolini (garlic olive oil, Calabrian chili, toasted breadcrumbs; $10) was prepared -- blandly boiled or steamed -- to a firm texture... It was edible, but not delicious to any of us. I didn't detect any chili, Calabrian or not. But enough of the broccolini made it into our kids that it accomplished its purpose and we couldn't complain.
The two house-made pastas we tried were both strong showings: Pappardelle bolognese (three meat ragu, pecorino cheese; $24) was particularly noteworthy, cooked to a pleasant al dente texture and nicely dressed with a generous amount of flavorful sauce. Spaghetti cacio e pepee (Tuscan pecorino, parmesan, cracked black pepper, extra virgin oil; $24) was pleasantly creamy and cheesy, successfully sold as a spaghetti-like version of macaroni and cheese to the under-10 contingent.
All of the many breakfast, lunch and kids' menu items; the cocktails (weak; ask for an extra shot of liquor if you're a lush like me); smoothies (be aware there's a lot of sugar added); juices; and desserts we tried were competently made.
Well done, RWSB. In our view, it's earned a catchier name.