Michael S.
Yelp
What an exciting time to be in Grand Rapids! Chef Jason Porter (IG @foodiejp) is playing chicken with your taste buds!
The Søvengård - on the foodie row of Bridge Street NW - is undergoing an exciting transformation under your very eyes. Staying true to its Scandinavian roots (the New Nordic Movement), grounded in its values of local (and foraged and home-grown) foods, it's reaching out to offer enticingly new flavor palettes and preparations.
At the moment, seating is in the outside rear section of the restaurant. The ambiançe is perfect for the cuisine: outdoorsy, between growing greenery, under the stars, lighted by Edison bulbs, warned by propane heaters. The musical background was cheery, uptempo, and unobtrusive.
Our visit tonight was a roller-coaster of experiences. Originally, I was disappointed by the menu, having my heart set on the duck of read about. I was ready to walk, especially after our heard they were out of one of my choices. I am *so* glad I didn't.
We started off with the Roasted Beets (oven-roasted red and golden beets, apple, nectarine, roasted pepitas, chévre, microgreens). I don't even love beets, but the combination of the apple acidity, beet sweetness, chévre tang, and pepita texture was a mouth-pleaser!
Next up was the Cheese Board (local cheeses, seasonal blueberries (tonight), house jam, pickles, local wildflower honey, grilled bread). Beautiful on the eyes, confusing on my palette; I couldn't figure out the why - no obvious theme or combinations. (Pandemic, supply chain issues, new staff and visions - it's all good. I trust that they'll debug this dish.)
They were out of Nana's Sopè (house-smoked local beef brisket, house-made corn sopè,
Leelanau raclette, blistered heirloom tomato, carmelized onion, fresh cilantro) but it's on my to-taste list on my next visit.
Instead, we went with the PB&J (confit local pastured pork belly, smoked apple compote, ginger gold apple, roasted butterball potatoes, sauteed string bean, apple-mustard cream). OMFG - THE PORK BELLY WAS PERFECTION! Rendered just so; the crispiest of exteriors and unctuous, elegant, creamy layers of fat. Seriously, there's a couple of area chefs that I'm sending over to Søvengård to see how pork belly ought to be executed. The potatoes are artistically presented, as the sweetheart said, taste like "mashed potatoes wrapped in potato chips".
Dessert was a Concord grape crumble, with grapes grown near-by fed picked by the chef. The texture on the crumble was divine, the jellied grapes, oh so purely grapey; the sweetheart was all over it. I was thinking some of the chévre would've counterbalanced the sweet.
The coffee was strong, hot, and very drinkable.
Chloé, our server, was helpful, cheerful, and attentive.
Chatting with Chef Jason - sampling some ingredients and also his "quickfire challenge" of the evening (which I know will make it to the menu when he's satisfied with it) - actually made me sad to be heading back to San Francisco this weekend. I don't want to miss a beat.
I'll be back in a few months; YOU can enjoy the taste (r)evolution happening nightly at Søvengård. Oh, sure, there'll be stumbles amongst the hits, but those are the experiences most dear, the foodie tales most precious. Don't miss out on the most exciting food happening in Grand Rapids!