Ann B.
Yelp
The price for the museum is much better than the prices for neighboring attractions, such as Hagia Sophia or Topkapı palace. Walk as if going to Topkapı palace, and then turn left just after you pass Hagia Irene. There is a main building, a smaller kiosk with Ottoman ceramics, and an outdoor section consisting of grave monuments. There is also an Orient museum, but we decided to skip this.
It was not very crowded when we went on a Saturday in December, but there were still people behaving rather inappropriately for the location, for instance by talking loudly on a cellphone or taking pictures with a flash when there are clear signs asking you not to do so. Although there are guards in nearly every room, they seemed to have no interest in enforcing polite behavior. Fortunately it was empty enough that the experience was not sullied by the occasional rude person.
The archaeological museum has an extensive collection. We spent three hours there, and by the end we had antiquities fatigue and rushed through the last bit. The first part is Greek-influenced Egyptian saracophaguses. After that is an extensive collection of Greek and Roman grave stelae. Another section covers prehistoric times. There are some Byzantine tiles, but this period is sadly rather underrepresented.
In some parts of the museum, the pieces are well-labeled in both English and Turkish. This was the case for the stelae. But in most of the rest of the museum, the labels were very cursory, and it was not possible to learn very much about the objects. It isn't always clear what is original and what is a reproduction. The museum is also not very organized; there is no overview and no direction signs indicating the different sections to ensure that you see them all. Sometimes the only way to move to the next section is by retracing your steps. It isn't evident that the detached building housing the Ottoman ceramics is part of the museum.
The displays were mostly somewhat out-of-date compared to how things are usually arranged in modern museums, which gave the impression that funds are lacking. You won't find interactive exhibits or movies (which is not a loss as far as I'm concerned, as I feel they add nothing to the experience). The lighting was surprisingly good in many places, however, so it is clear that someone cares about the collection. But what gave me the greatest impression of age was the lack of discussion of ethical questions which are found in most museums with these types of collections. For instance, a few minor pieces which were found at the same time as the lost the Trojan gold were presented without reference to the destruction Schliemann caused to the upper layers. The only evidence of some of the controversy of pre-19th century finds was a large sign commemorating the rightful return of a fresco; if there is any similar debate about pieces which came from places outside of modern Turkish borders, you will not find evidence of it in this museum.
It was also distressing to see many old stone carvings sitting outside to be abused by the soot and acid in the air and rain. The space is clearly inadequate for the size of the collection. Some objects inside were crammed into too small a space, such as the busts of Roman emperors, Agrippina, and Alexander the Great, which are crammed into a narrow hallway.
It is remarkably uncluttered with gift shops and similar nonsense. If you enjoy a good museum visit with minimal hand-holding, this is a good place to visit. You're allowed to take pictures without the flash, which many museums have banned. If you're looking for something which has been packaged for novices, this museum may not be for you. You need a working knowledge of the history of the region to appreciate it. It is probably also more suitable for adults than small children.
