Rod U.
Yelp
Which came first, the chicken or the egg? At Toriyasa it doesn't matter. Mr. Clucky is toast.
Through the first noren, greeted by a kimono clad hostess, through a "courtyard" of wet river rocks, a centuries old home with steep narrow staircases rising to small upper floors right out of an old samurai movie, then into a private tatami room overlooking the Kamo river. This is Toriyasa.
Toriyasa was opened in 1788, having garnered the status of a National Tangible Cultural Asset of Kyoto in 2004, and a Michelin star along the way. It has been in one family serving one dish continuously since that time; mizutaki (chicken soup).
Of course calling it a chicken soup is an gross understatement. The bones and meat of free ranged, organic chickens are cooked for three days yielding a white, collagen supercharged, heavily extracted broth. Simply put. This is the best chicken soup you will ever have.
The meal opens with a mixed assortment of single bites, the highlight is a whole chicken liver, served cold, cooked in a dashi and sweetened soy mixture. Amazing smooth texture and flavor ending in gentle mineral notes and a clean finish.
Do not pass on a side order of chicken skin. A dash of salt and shichimi brings the perfectly crisp skin to life. No residual oil, just thin, perfectly crisp sheets of skin.
Starters are followed by the first taste of the incredible soup mixed with a raw egg, so fresh, its deep orange yolk complements perfectly the deeply flavored broth. Simply seasoned with salt and shichimi. Phenomenal.
Four hot pot courses follow, each showcasing a different cut of the chicken (thigh, breast, leg, oyster) all with Chinese cabbage rolls, tofu, and thick Japanese green onion. Everything has a gentle flavor of chicken. While the chicken is fully cooked, it has a deep, free ranged flavor. A dipping sauce of homemade, yuzu based ponzu with more shichimi brightens the pallet as it rounds out each bite.
Finally the piece de resistance, zosui. More broth is added and reduced before the addition of rice and yet another uber fresh egg. Simply outstanding. The dish showcases the intense flavor of the soup. Add any combination of the ponzu, shichimi, and salt to taste. The more you eat, the more the collagen coats the palate.
Fresh fruit ends the meal.
Small but very well chosen sake list. Reasonable prices.
Excellent service that includes cooking and serving every course.
Full course per person JPY 10,000. Additional dishes such as chicken skin, karaage, extra. Our meal for two ran JPY 38,000 inclusive of service (20 percent).
Very little English spoken. Credit cards accepted. Seven private tatami rooms for a maximum of 20 guest. Outdoor dining over the Kamo river from May through August. Reservations two months in advance.