Murray W.
Yelp
When looking up locations for my birthday dinner, Town's location to my wife's apartment and its stellar reputation made it an easy choice. A look at the menu on their website didn't hurt either.
The place was nearly full when we showed up for our reservation at 8 on a Thursday, with just a couple spots open in the narrow restaurant. Decor is minimal, but gives a warm and casual feeling. One of the waiters' tuxedo t-shirt helped keep things from feeling too uptight, with most of the crowd being the 50-year-old, monied Ottawa types.
Town's menu is compact, with just six to seven options each of small and large plates, but this didn't mean that it was tough to find something that I liked. The roasted bone marrow, salt cod fritters and beet salad all called out to me, while mains like the short rib and hominy, and Italian ramen were two stand-out items. I ended up settling on the salt cod fritters to start, paired with a 3oz glass of insolia, and the short rib for the main event, with a glass of braccale.
We were given a few slices of focaccia and butter while we waited; ultra airy and with a not-too-tough crust, this was some great bread. A light touch with salt on top made it even better.
Our wine and small plates came soon after. Three golden brown fritters lay on top of a dark green pool of salsa verde, with a preserved lemon zest garnish, and foam for dipping. The fritters themselves were great - as crispy on the outside as they looked, and with a smooth filling on the inside of whipped potatoes and finely shredded cod. The salsa verde definitely lived up to its menu labelling of "spicy", and although the very neutral foam helped balance this out, I felt it was a bit much heat for the dish. The insolia paired well with the fritters, with some acidity for contrast and a pleasurable lack of the funky finish that some whites have.
Up next was the cleverly named "bone thugs n hominy" (town eschews capital letters). It was an impressive plate, with a large serving and a lot going on food-wise. There was the hunk of short rib covered in the romesco sauce, another unknown, steak-sauce like sauce, the charred half of a romaine heart, roasted peppers, pickled green beans, braised mushrooms, hominy, ground hazelnuts and the beef tendon puffs (ala pork cracklins). Phew. Blame that run-on, poorly structured sentence on Town and not me, please.
I have to say though, everything on the plate was excellent. Even the lettuce! With a great char flavour and perfect amount of oil, it made regularly prepared romaine look down right embarrassing. To quote my wife, "This is the best lettuce I've ever had!". The onions had a great sweet, roasted flavour and the peppers weren't hot, just adding a little bit of tang to the dish. The hominy was rich and provided a nice textural contrast with its chunkier bits. I was disappointed in the puffed beef tendons, which were a lot tougher than their more common pork skin cousins, which typically dissolve in your mouth after that wonderful, pork-tastic crunch. Luckily, the short rib was nothing short of fantastic. Confited and finished on the grill, it was tender but not mushy like many short ribs, and had a great char on the outside. The light acidity of the romesco provided a counterpoint to the rich meat, and I preferred it over the miscellaneous pool of steak sauce that was left off the menu. I loved nearly everything in this dish, but it's definitely suffering from feeling like there's too much going on and being a bit disjointed. Simplify it and you'll help out your kitchen staff and save on printing costs for its description on the menu.
The second glass of wine that I had, the braccale, is a blend of Sangiovese and merlot grapes and its rich flavour and hint of fruitiness paired well with the big flavours of my entree. With very little tannins, it was easy to drink on its own as well.
Service was friendly, informative and had great timing throughout our meal. The kitchen worked like a well-oiled machine, pumping out great food in very reasonable times considering the persistent crowd.
Town is the total package - food, service, and atmosphere - and made for a great way to ring in being another year older.