Rod U.
Yelp
Oh... My...Gawd...
Gasp after gasp. The tongue yearning. Give me more, more, yes more. On the precipice, waiting for the climactic explosion but it doesn't come. Instead better and better.
This is OUTSTANDING unagi.
Family owned and run for the past 187 years, now in its sixth generation, earning a Michelin star on the way, eating unagi here is an incredible experience.
The restaurant, a small, old looking house along a canal in the quieter part of Tokyo. Tables squished together, a couple of communal tatami spaces. Several generations of family members shuffling around serving happy guest. It exudes charm.
Only wild caught, extra large eels are used. Dispatched, cleaned, grilled over charcoal, steamed, and grilled again this time coated in the perfect sauce (the mother sauce goes back as far as the restaurant has been around). The effort is repeated day after day.
Breaking it down, the unagi, extremely fluffy, fatty, tender, not overwhelmingly muddy but you can clearly taste where the eel lived. Charring from the cooking process adds a hint of bitterness and gentle sweet smoke complexity. The sauce has A pronounced earthy flavor with an almost fermented but not unpleasant citrus tartness with a clean sea salt finish.. The combination is mind-boggling.
Definitely have it over rice (unajyu). In the beginning, the rice acts as a foil, clearing the pallet between bites. As time goes on, the fat from the eel soaks the rice, and like the melting fat of foie. It adds its own flavor and richness. Adding a bowl of kimosui (fragrant Sakura scented clear soup with eel liver) then works to cleanse the palate.
Finally, don't pass up the umaki. Basically dashimaki tamago with a huge piece of unagi running through it all brushed by the ethereal sauce. Easley the best I've ever had. Note two orders minimum. Two pieces per order. 1,700¥ each.
Note: the unagi it's not finished (grilled with the sauce) until it is ordered. Allow 30 to 45 minutes.
English menus but no English spoken. Phone reservations only. One day advance booking is all that is required. CASH ONLY.
Japan never ceases to amaze. This hold out of Edo cuisine still does it the traditional way in the modern megalopolis that is Tokyo.