Gerald S.
Yelp
Before I was ready to write a review, I needed a refresher on the geography and history of Uzbekistan, the Central Asian nation surrounded by other "stans;" its cities of Tashkent, Samarkand and Bukara, some of the Pearls along the Silk Road from Istanbul to Xian, China, made famous by the epic journeys of Marco Polo. I had visited Tashkent on business some years ago, and remembered it as very old and mysterious; full of mosques and museums - and especially, gem markets where trade in rare colored crystals and semi-precious stones, kept me excited, curious and negotiating for days at a time.
And, the food was equally excellent. So, when we decided on impulse to have dinner at Chaikhana on Bustleton Avenue last weekend, it was with a sense of remembered delicacies and dinners that went on for hours into the wee hours of the morning; with too much local alcohol and toasts to everything under the sun and moon. This was one of those friction points between two cultures, where each was influenced by the other. Here it meant people who looked Asian, but spoke Russian and various dialects. A place where Buddha was said to have travelled, and Islam flourished.
This shop is not typical Philly. It announces itself loudly by occupying a large house fronting the busy Bustleton, and having a large enclosed patio in front, wrapped in plastic to maintain temperature, and lit by tiny white lights encased in miniature trees on each table. No reservation was required this Sunday night, as we were seated on the end of a large table big enough for six. This porch was occupied by a few large parties celebrating happiness, which naturally took a lot of attention to service well. We still had enough of our gracious server's help to understand the menu with wise suggestions as to the dishes to mix without going overboard. Her suggestions were right on, as each plate was loaded with enough for two people, and ordering as we would in another restaurant would have been overkill here.
We started with mushroom soup and bread. One order was enough for both of us, and it was served in two bowls. It had several fungal varieties in a rich and savor base stock. Maybe a tad oily, but very flavorful and excellent. The round loaf of bread was a very pleasant surprise. It had a thick and chewy texture, and both a salty and sweet flavor. It was amazing. A smear of butter, or a sponging of the soup or gravies, made it the perfect complement for whatever was eaten.
Two apps were also shared. The Cheburek, a deep fried folded over dough filled with spicy ground beef, potato, onions and a few mysteries, was richly textured, smooth and delicious. The other escapes me at the moment, but it was round, plump and baked. Loved it. Our main entre was a chicken and lamb kabob, both of which were cooked to their apex of tenderness and flavor, with onion slices on the side. They were both wonderful, and again, enough for us to share. We ate well while those around us celebrated to the max. It was fun to watch and listen.
We were full before dessert, although very tempted by the cherry Vareniki and honey cake.
There was plenty left unexplored on this visit. But, like Marco Polo, many more trips to this part of Uzbekistan are anticipated.
