Two cuisines share a roof and a kitchen at VPho & Pizzeria - Review - New York - The Infatuation
"VPho & Pizzeria serves two entirely distinct menus—one Italian, and one Vietnamese—in a pizza parlor covered in laminated photographs of banh mi and summer rolls. To understand how it exists, you first need to know about Sorrento’s. The Morris Park pizzeria opened in 1973, and for 50 years it was a local favorite for their Sicilian slices. When the owner decided it was time to retire, his neighbor Michael took over the space. For a year, it was business as usual. Then Michael added Vietnamese food to the menu.
photo credit: Kate Previte
photo credit: Kate Previte
photo credit: Kate Previte
photo credit: Kate Previte
photo credit: Kate Previte
Pause
Unmute
The two cuisines coexist beautifully in this uniquely New York pairing, which is just as good for a quick slice as it is for a steamy bowl of phở. A display case at the front counter houses pizzas and chicken rolls as well as takeout cups of hoisin sauce, sriracha, and a pleasantly fiery housemade chili sauce. The only overlap between the two menus? Crusty baguettes from New Jersey, which are the basis of the banh mi, and also come on the side of big, glistening bowls of penne alla vodka.
If you come here for one thing, it should be something off the Vietnamese menu, like Michael’s personal recommendation: the bánh hỏi đặc biệt, loaded with three different types of meat. But you shouldn’t ever come here for just one thing. Because where else can you alternate between a bowl of phở and a bowl of penne at lunch on a random weekday? Act accordingly. Pregame your bánh mì with a slice of pizza, because why the heck not. This is New York!
Food Rundown
Plain Slice
Usually, a single slice of pizza is a snack. But at VPho, think of a single slice of pizza as an appetizer. The plain slices here are exactly what you’d expect from a pizza parlor slice—extra cheesy, just crispy enough underneath, and certifiably still good when eaten cold.
photo credit: Kate Previte
Gỏi Cuốn
The perfect starting line-up: a plain slice and an order of summer rolls. Seriously, a cheesy slice and a cold, herb-packed summer roll dunked in peanut sauce play well together.
photo credit: Kate Previte
Bánh Mì Ðặc Biệt
They don't skimp on the mayo or the creamy pate on this sandwich, both of which bring this overstuffed sandwich from good to great. At $9, it's a sandwich your mind will wander back to every time you're in possession of a $10 bill.
photo credit: Kate Previte
Bánh Hỏi Ðặc Biệt
The very shareable platter is loaded with grilled pork, charred beef rolls, and bouncy pork sausage, plus a bunch of pickled vegetables and a pile of lettuce on the side for wrapping up and dipping in fish sauce. But the real star is the scallion oil—the wilted scallion condiment is scattered across the entire dish, and also tucked inside each bundle of vermicelli noodles.
photo credit: Kate Previte
Phở Sate
The spice really creeps up on you in this one. Packed with thinly-sliced beef, compact beef balls, and feathery tripe, this bowl of phở shimmers with hot oil, but the underlying sweetness and warm spices in the broth help to balance things out. Spicy or not, any phở here is a wise choice—the broth tastes like it’s been tinkered with for days.
photo credit: Kate Previte
Penne Alla Vodka
For a full-on Vietnamese Italian spread, penne alla vodka has got to make an appearance. If you put this giant bowl of penne on a white tablecloth next to a bottle of red at an old-school Italian restaurant, it would fit right in. That’s a compliment. Dip the accompanying bread in the Easter egg-orange, parmesan-forward vodka sauce.
photo credit: Kate Previte
Ốc Mỡ Xào Me
If you’re here for a quick meal, skip this massive platter of snails, which require some serious arm wrestling to get out of their shells. But if you’ve got a second—snail. These grease snails arrive in a thick, sticky tamarind butter sauce, with a heavy hand of peanuts and fresh herbs to cut through all that richness. And yes, you should use your penne alla vodka bread for mopping up all that sauce.
photo credit: Kate Previte" - Willa Moore