Lindsey C.
Yelp
First of all, the food at this small, 3-Michelin-star gem out of the way in a residential section of Nara, Japan, was the stunning highlight of our trip. I was absolutely blown away, not only by the quality, but by the modest price for our dinner. The two of us had the special seasonal kaiseki dinner menu, as well as a few drinks a piece, and it totalled about 38,000 yen (about $380 USD very roughly?) I can't imagine getting out of 3 starred places in NYC for under about $800 total so I was surprised. Price aside, I would rank this among the best meals I've ever had in my life, if not the absolute best.
I'll try to append photos later if I can.
Our meal started with a sort of gelee of yuzu and dashi, with tomato and shunsai, as well as small cups of umeshu plum wine.
Then there was the suimono (clear soup,) which was hamo-wan.
Then we had a sashimi of okoze (poisonous rockfish) expertly sliced.
Followed by a beautiful presentation of ise-ebi (like spiny, pincerless lobster) tail sashimi (served on the shell) along with other fishes. They had prepared the remainder of the lobster and brought it back out with picks so that we could eat the remaining meat and the miso inside.
This was followed by I believe a large presentation of small seasonal dishes, including broadbean, some type of whelk, small octopi, goma-tofu, etc.
This is where the order for me starts to get fuzzy.
I remember we had 2 each of the most delicious grilled ayu (called sweetfish) that were so sweet and tender that you could eat the entire thing, skulls, bones, and all from head to tale. These came out on the grill and were so enticing I forgot to photograph them.
At some point we had the most tender eggplant with the most perfect uni on top of it. It was, hands down, the best thing that I had ever eaten, and possibly one of the best moments of my life. I had this incredible feeling wash over me at that time like as though my whole life had been leading to that exact second. Kind of silly now, but in the moment it made absolute sense to me.
There was something with yuba tofu sheets in it I believe that I can't remember what it was. Then there was a choice of seasonal rice dishes (crab zousui, fresh bamboo shoot rice, rice with chirimen sansho) and akadashi miso soup.
Finally, there was fresh strawberry in gelatin and housemade orange juice with incredible yuzu/lemony depth for dessert.
Throughout this whole meal, the owner/chef of the restaurant stood behind the counter and chatted with us. It was really an incredible experience. He handwrote a copy of the night's menu out for us which we're going to frame. I think that perhaps for those who aren't that into/knowledgeable about kaiseki or traditional styles of Japanese food, or who don't have a palate that appreciates the subtle flavor of some of these preparations, it might not be the right fit. The chef himself had said something to that effect, that his food isn't for everyone, (not just in the case of Westerners, but including Japanese as well) and there are going to be some people who are going to prefer things like tempura and meat with bolder and defined flavor. There are going to be people who feel that a 3-star restaurant require the French style of waiter service, and those people may be surprised at the way that this restaurant is run. However, I found this experience beyond incredible and would urge anyone who is interested in kaiseki in the area to visit if they have a chance. The proof, for me, was in the little details, the warmth, etc. Definitely sit at the counter if you can.
They do take reservations and those are necessary to get in, and if you can not speak Japanese, they can still take the reservation if you leave a message. Apparently he has a waitress come in sometimes that speaks English to call people back and set it up.
About 2 mins walk from the station.