Rich B.
Google
Water and Wheat on the Upper West Side has a lot of potential and, with a few adjustments, could be truly outstanding. The setting is pleasant and the service is above average—staff is generally attentive and friendly. That said, there are some puzzling choices in how the meal is structured. We were handed the wine list as soon as we sat down, but the cocktail menu didn’t appear until it was attached to the dessert menu at the very end of the meal. It makes me wonder if management fully understands (or values) the difference between an apéritif and a digestif.
The pacing of the meal also felt rushed, even though the restaurant wasn’t busy. Our main courses arrived when we were only halfway through the appetizers, which undercut the chance to enjoy each course at a comfortable pace. On the food side, the menu is a bit of a mixed bag. The meatball appetizer is excellent—flavorful and satisfying—while the calamari, though not terrible, was on the chewy side. The salads are good, if not particularly memorable.
Where Water and Wheat really shines is in its fresh pastas and sauces. You can tell the pasta is made in-house; it tastes fresh, with great texture and well-balanced sauces that feel like the heart of the restaurant. The flatbreads, however, are a disappointment. They eat more like flat crackers than anything resembling the fresh focaccia or pizza-style dough they seem to be aiming for—especially puzzling given the obvious skill in their pasta dough. If they applied that same care to their breads and fine-tuned the pacing and beverage service, this place could be amazing. Just my humble opinion, but it’s very close to being something special.