Jonathan Lim
Google
Wine review of Meyer-Näkel Dernauer Pfarrwingert Spätburgunder GG 2017
This wine comes from the Ahr region, to the north of the Rhineland-Palatinate - one of the smallest wine-growing regions in Germany, with just 6% of the output of the Mosel. The region follows the Ahr river in the final stages of its journey toward the confluence of the Rhein river. In this region, 85% of the output is red wine, of which ¾ is spätburgunder. Other famous varieties in this region include the early-ripening Pinot Noir clone fruhburgunder, the fruity portugieser, and of course Riesling.
It is surprising that most of the output here is red wine because, based on where it is located at more than 50 degrees latitude north, it should be too cold for making red wine. The secret is that there is an ideal microclimate here due to special geologic conditions. The steep south-facing vineyards are perfectly angled to maximize sunlight exposure. The soil is made of greywacke (or greywacke for English speakers) and weathered slate, and are able to absorb and store heat. The best vineyards here, the GGs, are on the steepest slopes that get the highest amounts of sunlight.
Meyer-Näkel is the most famous producer in this region. A fifth-generation family estate that goes back to the marriage of first-generation Paula Meyer and Wilibald Näkel in 1950 when they joined their winery and the dortkneipe (pub) in the village of Dernau. They started with 1.5 hectares, and made a name for themselves for producing top quality dry red wine, even during the years when sweet wine was still fashionable.
Now, they own 15 hectares of vineyards and the ones in charge are two sisters, Meike and Dörte. Both of them studied at the famous wine institute in Geisenheim, and gradually took over operations for the estate. Their spätburgunders are internationally acclaimed and their top wines are not cheap.
Pfarrwingert is 1.2 hectares, and its soils are composed of stony weathered soil, coloured sandstone, blue slate and clay fragments. The name of the vineyard (which means vineyard of the priest in the local dialect) goes back to the Catholic parish church of Dernaus, which is still the landowner in this parcel. This is the earthiest and darkest of the three GG wines in their portfolio.
Spontaneous fermented and aged in 70% new barriques for 18 months, followed by 6 months of bottle ageing.
Dark brick red in colour. This wine is characterized by the aromas of dark berries, blueberries and cherries. There is a herbaceous fig-like character that emerges when decanted for a good 3-4 hours, with a pronounced forest-floor, mossy underwood note, with some darker fruits of blackberries. The tannins are silky, and the mouthfeel is quite minerally. Powerful on the palate, with taut acidity and a long finish.
