Justin T.
Yelp
This is a tricky one to write. I've been a huge fan of Chris Shepherd's work for years, and of course, the front-of-house and back-of-house teams that execute on his visions. The Texas Monthly review got me thrilled to come check this out. And our meal definitely had its highlights. But all in all, it was hard for me to get too, too excited about this visit to Wild Oats.
What's good: Pepper jelly cheese was outstanding! Nice fry on the fried pickles. Wagyu chicken fried steak was tasty. Chicken off the grill was really nicely done too. Drinks are creative and don't skimp on liquor. Even the leftovers were great!
The service: Service was okay, but not at the level I'm used to seeing at One Fifth and Underbelly. We had great interactions from a manager and a chef, but our server was not as strong. The description of one of our entrees from the server was fairly different from what it ended up being.
The location: In time, the Houston Farmers Market could become a cool spot. At the moment, it was a little disappointing. At the moment, Wild Oats is the only place that is open after dark. Unlike the old One Fifth building, where you could go check out Poison Girl or Goodnight Charlie's after a meal, a Wild Oats meal will end with you unlocking your car.
The ambiance: An excellent playlist of Texan bands! I liked elements of the classic, family homestead design, and the open kitchen is a really great touch with the homestyle feel they're going for. However, it was almost a bit too casual for the food served. Diner tables and linoleum floors with your $85 steak? It would be nice to see some tablecloths.
And lastly, the price: At the end of the day, times are challenging for both restaurants and their customers. Wild Oats is the go-to spot for Texas comfort food, and there is a price to be paid for quality farm-to-table eats. At the same time, the weak service, less-than-ideal location, and overly-casual feel prevent Wild Oats from being one of my favorite spots in this price point in the way that One Fifth was. It's not the 2014 oil boom days anymore, and a $42 chicken-fried Wagyu steak, while a Wagyu steak on one hand, is $42 on the other hand.
I'm sure this wasn't my last visit to Wild Oats. I'll be following closely how both Wild Oats and the Houston Farmer's Market evolve, and look forward to giving them another try down the road. There's just too much potential for this to not be a winner.