Hingry
Google
Pretty good, but I can't wholeheartedly recommend this place. Let's find out why.
We started our meal off with a selection of 5 shared starters and bread on the side:
• Steak tartare, deep-fried potato, radish, anchovies
• Sea bream ceviche, avocado, jalapeno, grapefruit
• Stracciatella, fennel, rhubarb, pistachio
• Farm chicken pie, foie gras, morel, "meloes" onion
• Deep-fried pumpkin
At €42 for 2 people to share, it's a bit steep; however, to be fair, the portions are quite sizable. If you're not very hungry, this is enough for an entire light meal.
My main:
• Redfish, lobster risotto, fennel, gremolata, herb salad
Dessert:
• Kouign Amann, pecan ice-cream
Flavor-wise, every dish was very well balanced. Take the ceviche, for example: despite the clear acidic denaturation, the fish retained its fresh character and flavor. The smokiness and sweetness of the charred corn balanced the acidity, while the avocado added a creamy richness to the party – every component supported the fish.
However at this premium price point, I expect better execution.
Here are some of my nit-picks:
• The deep-fried elements were a bit oily and greasy. After eating, they left your mouth coated in frying oil. Not pleasant. Usually a case of temperature control or old oil.
• The pieces of fish in the ceviche were very roughly cut with lots of jagged edges. Not an ideal mouthfeel. This is a knife skill issue. A minor gripe in this case.
• The biggest letdown was the baked goods, especially for a restaurant that incorporates the term "bakery" in its name. The pie crust was uneven, and in some parts even undercooked. The bread was slightly over-baked in places, and the crust overall was slightly bitter. My hypothesis is that the oven hasn't been properly cleaned; crumbs and flour residue get repeatedly baked and burnt, transferring bitterness to the bread. This can be a common occurrence in high-volume bakeries. Furthermore, baked goods are usually very fragrant; I was missing that aroma here as well.
So, there you have it. Wils Bakery Café is a fun place with an interesting menu. If you're in the neighborhood, give this place a go. I personally wouldn't mind eating here again and trying their other dishes, but this place really needs to dot the I's and cross its T's.