Jeremy Edmunds
Google
In the quiet stretch of Orange Street in New Haven, nestled on the ground floor of the historic Palladium building, WOW TIKKA has emerged as a beacon of fresh possibility in the city's fast-casual scene. This isn't a new venture so much as a reincarnation: when beloved Tikkaway Grill closed during the pandemic, owner Gopi Nair returned with colleague Kannan Kesavalu to create something both familiar and entirely new.
The space itself speaks to this duality. Clean white walls and beige floor tiles create a canvas of simplicity, punctuated by a curved red counter that sweeps dramatically across the room. Wooden accents provide warmth, while colorful artwork and an elegant orchid hint at the thoughtfulness behind this operation. On a weekday afternoon, the restaurant buzzes with a mix of Yale students, office workers, and locals seeking something beyond the standard lunch fare.
WOW TIKKA's approach is straightforward: customize your meal from base to toppings, with Indian flavors as the through line. The bowl that arrived at our table was a study in texture and color — kidney beans nestled against vibrant beet slaw, chopped red onions complementing shredded cabbage, all anchored by a protein option that could be swapped for any number of alternatives. It's a formula that might seem familiar to devotees of certain Mexican-inspired chains, but the execution here feels fresher, more interesting.
The formula is simple enough: select a base (basmati rice, brown rice, or greens), add a protein (chicken tikka, lamb kebab, falafel, or paneer among the options), choose from several house-made sauces ranging from mild to assertively spicy, pile on vegetable toppings, and finish with chutneys or yogurt-based dressings. The result is a meal that feels both healthy and satisfying — no small feat in the quick-service category.
What separates WOW TIKKA from its fast-casual peers is its willingness to push beyond the expected. Yes, there are build-your-own bowls, but the menu also ventures into more adventurous territory with items like samosa chat (crushed samosa layered with chickpeas and various toppings) and Indian-style chicken tacos that hint at the kitchen's playful approach to tradition.
The restaurant's history adds a layer of community connection often missing from new establishments. At the grand opening last May, Mayor Justin Elicker was in attendance, reportedly one of Tikkaway's most loyal customers, jokingly pleading with Nair not to "tikkaway Tikkaway from us again." It's the kind of local lore that gives a restaurant roots, even in its infancy.
Kesavalu, who runs a similar concept near Boston's Fenway Park, brings experience that shows in the operation's smooth efficiency. Orders move quickly through the assembly line, and the staff navigates the small space with practiced coordination. Prices hover in the $12-$15 range for most meals — reasonable for the quality and quantity provided.
What WOW TIKKA lacks in pretense, it makes up for in execution. This is not boundary-pushing cuisine or the place for an elaborate dining experience. Rather, it represents something perhaps more valuable: thoughtful food made accessible, cultural flavors presented without dilution but with enough familiarity to welcome newcomers. In the crowded landscape of fast-casual dining, that might be innovation enough.
