KI-NRT
Google
Yamagata The Takinami was a delightful surprise. Given its relatively large size (19 rooms), street-facing location in the middle of town (similar to its primary competitor, Sakurayu Sanshuyu), heavy marketing presence in Japan, and smaller room sizes — except for one — we didn’t have sky-high expectations. On paper, it didn’t fully align with our vision of a luxury ryokan experience. However, it completely exceeded our expectations and left a lasting impression.||What you won’t find here is the private, tranquil atmosphere of smaller, more secluded ryokans such as Atamiso. Encounters with other guests are more frequent, and the various activities — especially the counter dining experience — foster social interactions more than usual. While we generally prefer solitude on our travels, the quality of experiences here was so engaging that we genuinely enjoyed our stay. Yamagata The Takinami is one of the rare places where we didn’t mind being constantly involved rather than purely relaxing.||Founded in 1916, Yamagata The Takinami sits in Akayu Onsen, a hot spring town with a rich 925-year history. The main building traces its origins to the Edo period (1603–1868). The current iteration of the ryokan was established in 2017 after a comprehensive renovation under the direction of Toru Iwase, editor-in-chief of the lifestyle, architecture, and travel magazine Jiyu-jin.||The property’s aesthetic blends elements of ryugon and Satoyama Jujo — traditional rural Japanese farmhouse characteristics mixed with avant-garde decor. Just outside the entrance, there’s a small onsen drinking station, said to enhance skin quality if consumed daily.||Yamagata The Takinami offers three room types:|- Kura (renovated storehouse)|- Sakura (garden and cherry blossom view)|- Yamagata (featuring local crafts)||We stayed in KURA01, a spacious, one-of-a-kind 129-square-meter suite on the first floor with a private garden and open-air hot stone onsen. Other rooms range from 60 square meters or less, with many being maisonette-style — something we don’t particularly prefer. I'm not sure about the other rooms, but KURA01 had a refined, sophisticated look that resonated with us.||Regardless of the room type, every guest enjoys an in-room onsen sourced directly from the spring.|- First-floor rooms (or duplex rooms with baths below) have volcanic rock-carved onsen tubs, sourced from nearby Zao Mountain. These allow for a more authentic experience due to reduced oxygen exposure.|- Second-floor rooms feature hinoki cypress baths, where water flows from above—like most onsens across Japan.||KURA01’s garden, while pleasant, wasn’t particularly manicured. This seemed to align with the natural landscaping aesthetic of the Nanyo area, as seen at nearby Sakurayu Sanshuyu. One concern I had was the lack of floor heating, which might make winter stays uncomfortable since shoes must be removed upon entry—a significant drawback in a cold region like Tohoku.||Though there is a communal Daiyokujo onsen, it’s relatively small. However, since each room has a private bath, the public onsen is seldom crowded. Both times I visited the men’s bath, I had it entirely to myself.||One unexpected onsen feature was Yunohana (aka. Yubana) — mysterious white flakes floating atop the water. Initially, I feared someone had rubbed off dead skin while bathing! However, I later learned that these flakes naturally occur due to mineral solidification when dissolved hot spring components react to temperature changes, pressure drops, or air exposure.||Shortly after check-in at 3PM, guests are invited to a complimentary sake tasting showcasing the finest brews from Yamagata Prefecture, followed by a Juwari Soba-making demonstration. Juwari Soba consists of 100% buckwheat — making it gluten-free — and is notoriously difficult to prepare. Since most soba noodles contain other flours, the 100% buckwheat variety is a rarity. The Juwari Soba was later served during dinner.||During our stay, the ryokan’s president wasn’t present, so sake sommelier Mr. Hirayama hosted the experience, delivering an engaging presentation about the property’s history and local culture.||Additional seasonal activities vary. Among them are:|- Spring: Guided walk to Eboshiyama Park during cherry blossom season|- Summer: Evening firefly-watching excursions|- Early morning trips to an observation deck near Nanyo Sky Park||These activities make the ryokan particularly enjoyable for travelers without a car, adding variety to the stay.||Without question, the kaiseki cuisine at Yamagata The Takinami was spectacular. We were consistently amazed by the creativity and depth of flavors throughout our meals. The Mrs. considers it the best meal she’s ever had, and while I hesitate to go that far, I can confidently say it was the most unique kaiseki experience we’ve ever enjoyed. The menu blends subtle European influences but overwhelmingly celebrates local Yamagata ingredients.||One of the unforgettable servings was a dish of seasonal wild edible mountain vegetables seasoned in cold dashi and vegetable broth. Some of the vegetables were boiled, while others were crispy-fried, while still others were prepared raw. The featured vegetables included Kogomi (Ostrich Fern), Taranome (Japanese Angelica Tree Sprout), Kuwadai (The new and young leaves of the Robust Parasenecio plant), Koshiabura (thin-stemmed buds with soft green leaves found in the Chengiopanax sciadophylloides tree), Ainu Negi (Siberian Onion), Yama Ninjin (It's called a carrot, but it's actually a perennial plant of the Apiaceae family.), Katakuri (Asian Fawnlily), Urui (Hostas), Akatsuki (The leaves and bulbs of a type of wild mountain onion) and Sumire (Viola Mandshurica, a flower.) We've had our share of edible mountain vegetables, but to have one serving where we only knew half of them was quite the surprise. And it all tasted awesome!||Other memorable dishes included:||- Rice-fed Koi fish sashimi with Ostrich Ferns, accompanied by umeboshi-infused dashi|- Rice puffs with Japanese knotweed and wild walnuts|- Dessert: Freshly baked and fried chou pastry, paired with Yamagata strawberries, custard cream, and Gelato made from Butterbur flower shoots||Dining is counter-seated by default, though three private koshitsu rooms are available. While I enjoy open-kitchen settings, I find it crucial to interact extensively with the staff to fully grasp each serving’s details. Ambient noise can make this challenging, so I made sure to confirm private dining in advance.||Compared to tranquil retreats like Asaba, Atamiso, or Takefue, Yamagata The Takinami offers a livelier, more interactive cultural experience. As a change of pace, we thoroughly enjoyed it. For those seeking a ryokan that encourages guest engagement, this property is sure to leave a lasting impression.||For a more private alternative, the same owner recently opened Osteria Sincerita, just a few hundred meters away. This three-room luxury ryokan boasts larger accommodations (150 square meters), offering a more intimate experience. While guests at Sincerita enjoy access to activities at Yamagata The Takinami, its culinary approach is entirely Italian, led by Michelin-starred chef Makoto Harada.
