Dave L.
Yelp
In every possible way, Yu-shan-ge exceeded expectations. From the presentation, to the service, to the quiet elegance of the restaurant decor, everything was absolutely exceptional.
The velvety chestnut soup dotted with black truffle and red date had a dark roasted -- almost (dare I say it?) steak-y depth to it. I texted someone during this course: "I want to die in this soup."
And the courses that followed never let up, from the artistic arrangement of sushi-style tidbits, to the sesame-cashew ball crusted with lotus root and served in a little cup with a morsel of tomato hidden underneath, to the baked bamboo horn with sweet miso and pine nuts that melted in my mouth in a way I would never have thought possible for this vegetable. The main course of lion's mane mushroom infused with curry was set off brilliantly by a mound of sharp, mustard-y spiced cabbage, followed by a perfect little pink rice ball dotted with mushroom and a cup of herbal soup I never wanted to get to the bottom of.
Oh, and the tea was excellent too. And my server didn't miss a trick. She kept my water glass full and rotated these gorgeous platters -- orchids! bonsai! a zen garden of crushed ice! -- on and off the table like a consummate professional. (My only quibble: the dining room was ever so slightly colder than would have been ideal for me, and I saw a couple female diners put their coats on while eating.)
I've tried to eat nouvelle-cuisine vegan/vegetarian meals of this caliber in San Francisco, Berkeley, Los Angeles, Santa Barbara, Santa Fe, all over. Everything has always, somehow, been a little bit of a let down. Great food, maybe, but never really worth the price. Or there was a problem with the service. Or we had to wait a long time to be seated. Or maybe, in a prix fixe, one course would be amazing, and then the next one would be a let down.
But this place, Yu-shan-ge, to which I ventured out on the coldest, windiest night of the coldest February in the whole history of Taipei, and where they sat me down, smiling, with no reservation, this place delivered the goods. Perhaps the finest, most nearly flawless meal I've had in my entire life. My eyes welled up when dessert came, because I knew it was almost over.