A Cuba Trip to Remember

"Enjoy the drink of pirates (and Hemingway) With the US travel restrictions to Cuba recently relaxed, I was able to realize a lifelong dream and visit that enchanting tropical isle under an official educational license for "people to people" travel. There were so many highlights, I'll never be able to post them all. But let me get back on topic. In between the fascinating meetings with locals and the exhilarating live music and the walking tours of colorful colonial neighborhoods, I was also on a mission to decide who made the best mojito in Cuba. To be honest, I also sampled my share of Cuba Libres, but in the interest of stress-free travel, I was only judging the mojitos. And... the award for best mojito in Cuba goes to... the lobby bar at Hotel Meliá Cohiba in Havana. From the generous portions of rum and perfectly muddled spearmint to the exact balance of sweetness versus lime-ness, we have a winner! For any like-minded travelers who find themselves taste-testing around Havana, consider a trek to the bar where Hemingway drank his mojitos, La Bodeguita del Medio, a painfully small watering hole that has significantly more atmosphere than barstools. Above the bar is a framed note in Hemingway's own hand indicating that besides mojitos, he also enjoyed daiquiris (but for those he visited the historic restaurant El Floridita). Salud!"

"Nao Bar Paladar, Cuba One of Havana’s newer privately run eateries, Nao has a chic dining room with exposed beams and a large international wine collection. In addition to fritters, croquettes, lamb shoulder, pork loin, and a variety of seafood dishes, Nao serves a traditional ropa vieja that is quickly becoming a local favorite. Obispo No. 1-e, between Avenida del Puerto and Baratillo, Habana Vieja, 53/(0) 7-867-3463. This appeared in the October 2013 issue."

"Doña Eutimia, Cuba Once you’ve found the restaurant, tucked away in an alley off the Plaza de la Catedral in Old Havana, you’ll discover why Leticia Abad’s ropa vieja is widely considered the best in the city. Tables are few and in high demand, so make a reservation for dinner. Callejón del Chorro No. 60-c, Plaza de la Catedral, Habana Vieja, 53/(0) 7-861-1332. This appeared in the October 2013 issue."

"An imposing fortress in Santiago de Cuba A trip to Santiago de Cuba wouldn't be complete without a visit to San Pedro de la Roca Castle, also known as Castillo del Morro. This imposing fortress on the bay protected the city from pirates and military attack and is considered both historically and architecturally significant. It has been magnificently restored and has been a UNESCO world heritage site since 1997. We were lucky enough to visit just before sunset when the views were spectacular."

"One Million Souls Everything in Cuba is worth looking at, and the Colon cemetery in the heart of Havana is no exception. Some heavy hitters are laid to rest here including baseball players, a chess champion, actors, soldier, presidents, and naturally, members of the Buena Vista Social Club. This lot is massive with nearly 1 million laid to rest here, plan to spend a lot of time here - bring your sunscreen. Unofficial guides roam the grounds, pay one to take you around. Ask to see the domino headstone, fantastic story there."

"Gin Cocktails in Old Havana Brothers José Carlos and Julio Imperatori co-own 304 O'Reilly, an art-inspired dining experience in Old Havana. José Carlos used to work at a government bar in Havana, but always dreamed of opening his own restaurant. As soon as the government passed the law allowing Cubans to own their own businesses, the brothers opened their doors. José Carlos focuses on the day-to-day management of the restaurant, while Julio is busy traveling the country, sourcing the best produce. It is this practice that makes 304 O'Reilly one of the finest restaurants in all of Havana. I enjoyed the ceviche de pescado, empanadas, and variety of gin cocktails on the menu. The atmosphere is fun and funky, and every woman receives a flower before leaving the building. All these components make 304 O'Reilly the perfect destination for a night out in Old Havana."

"Azucar Restaurant in Old Havana's Plaza Vieja My favorite part of Azucar restaurant in Plaza Vieja isn't the trendy setting, delicious food and drinks, or perfect location. My favorite part of Azucar is that it's one of the many restaurants that began when the government allowed Cubans to open their own businesses -- plus it's owned by a woman. The setting offers a modern vibe in Old Havana, and is decorated with slick photography, reminiscent of a Miami dining experience. The food is excellent, and the drinks are some of the best in Havana. Outdoor, balcony seating is a great way to spend a night overlooking Plaza Vieja in Old Havana."