"Tucked in a basement beneath a chiropractic clinic in Manhattan’s Ukrainian Village, this unexpected, cash-only spot has harsh fluorescent lighting, vinyl tablecloths, plastic silverware and a TV tuned to Eastern European news — and can have a line after the nearby Ukrainian church ends service. Run by volunteer chef Dmytro Kovalenko, who arrived in New York after fleeing violence in Ukraine, and an all-volunteer staff, the menu tops out at seven dollars and focuses on Ukrainian staples: potato-stuffed varenyky, borscht, rose jam doughnuts, and daily specials like shredded cabbage and pork salad, fried potato pancakes, and wheat berries with poppy seeds and honey. The standout is the kovbasa — a pork sausage made around the corner at the East Village Meat Market — creamy inside, charred and snappy outside, served with almost jammy cabbage, sliced sandwich bread and a packet of spicy mustard; it’s salty, fatty and stick-to-your-bones good. Bring cash, watch your head on the stairs, and be prepared for simple surroundings that belie the soulful, deeply comforting food." - ByAlex Delany