Lotus of Siam — Restaurant Review | Condé Nast Traveler

"Tell us about your first impressions when you arrived. For years, Lotus of Siam was the worst-kept secret in Las Vegas, and its first location—in the down-at-the-heels Commercial Center strip mall, surrounded by strip clubs—drew long, and then longer, lines. Then it expanded, and expanded some more, adding a sleek wine room for its carefully chosen Rieslings, Gewurztraminer, and other selections. But in 2017, when major flood-related roof damage forced the original location to close, Lotus reopened a couple of miles away. The new location has pretty purple banquettes, romantic lighting, and murals depicting various aspects of Thai life. It's lovely, sure, but some would argue that its former down-and-out feel was part of the charm. It's also much smaller than the original, so expect to wait—or book a couple of weeks in advance. What was the crowd like? The crowd has changed over the years, from mostly local, to hipster, to business diners and conventioneers who have read about the food and wine. What should we be drinking? The Thai-food-friendly wine list here has been recognized by Wine Spectator as one of the best wine lists in an Asian restaurant in the United States; it was also long-listed in 2018 by the James Beard Foundation for Outstanding Wine Program. Lotus does now have a liquor license, but if you're smart, you'll throw yourself at their sommelier's mercy and have your dishes perfectly paired with one of the many wonderful wines. Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss. Lotus of Siam's capabilities are so big that there's a whole separate menu dedicated to Northern Thailand, with dishes influenced by neighboring Myanmar, Laos, and South China. There are a few things you should try: moo dad deaw (Thai style pork jerky) is a deep-fried marinated spicy pork that comes as an appetizer. Tom kha kai is spot-on and creamy, and don't miss khao soi, the crispy duck on a bed of egg noodles in curry, with lime and pickled vegetables. Servers will give you tons of direction, and they'll take you very seriously when you ask for "Thai hot" levels—so be warned. And how did the front-of-house folks treat you? You'll wait, and maybe wait some more, but the experience is completely worth it. Staffers both love what they do and know the menus inside and out. Courses are generally well-timed. What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here? Lotus of Siam used to be the place to bring people you wanted to impress with your deep insider knowledge of Las Vegas off-Strip dining. But considering how much national attention the restaurant has gotten in the last 20 years, that's no longer the case. It's impressive to be able to get a prime-time reservation here, though, so if you want to show a future boss or some foodie in-laws that you have some sway in Vegas, this is the spot." - Andrea Bennett