The Loyalist

Smyth + The Loyalist, Chicago, Illinois, U.S. - Restaurant Review | Condé Nast Traveler

"Tell us about your first impressions when you arrived. Smyth + The Loyalist is not your typical name-ampersand-name hipster restaurant. In this case, the name actually denotes two distinct restaurants in a bi-level space. Spacious and modern Smyth has an open-air kitchen, modern furnishings, and bright windows. Loyalist, on the other hand, is a subterranean, moody bar with concrete floors, dark walls, and amber-hued lighting. Smyth: Stylish, Mad Men-esque living room; Loyalist: Raucous, elevated dive bar What was the crowd like? Whereas Smyth tends to attract buttoned-up diners there for the tasting menu, Loyalist is much more dressed-down, appealing to hipsters and creative types in search of a late-night bite. What should we be drinking? The Loyalist serves a range of exciting cocktails—try the Purple Parlez-Vous (with Mezcal, Fernet Branca, orgeat, cinnamon, and lime) or the Fig Destroyer (with Belvedere vodka, fig, apricot, thyme, and soda). The team also offers thoughtfully curated pairings for the creative range of dishes on the menu. Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss. Husband-and-wife owner/chefs John Shields and Karen Urie Shields bring their pedigreed experience to bear in their kitchens. (Both worked for the storied Charlie Trotter.) They have a deep sense of seasonality, thanks to a strong relationship with a 20-acre farm just outside of  Chicago . Their connection to the soil yields items like the Lobster Gelée (with Maine uni, melon ceviche, and bergamot oil), the Sunchoke Tart (with a caramelized-salted egg yolk custard, Maitake mushroom mayonnaise, and sunchokes skins); and the Braised Beef Cheek (with dried turnip, black finger lime, and burnt cabbage reduction). Downstairs at The Loyalist, you’ll find a contender for one of the city’s best burgers, alongside options like Truite À La Grenobloise, a foie gras éclair, and a house omelet made with Spence Farm eggs, beurre blanc, camembert, and sorrel. And how did the front-of-house folks treat you? Smyth may seem a little more tight-lipped, but the staff is approachable and casual, appropriate for the comfy, living room-esque space. Loyalist’s bartenders and servers are professional and casual, often dealing with crowds late into the night. What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here? Smyth + The Loyalist offer two completely different experiences, but both are executed with aplomb. Whether you’re looking for an elevated late-night dive or a more-casual-than-normal seasonal tasting menu, you’ll find both here." - Antonio Basada