Peaks Island — Island Review | Condé Nast Traveler

"What’s this place all about? Peaks Island isn’t about any one thing in particular; it’s about settling into a slower pace of life. The 720-acre island is home to about 1,000 full-time residents (make that about 3,000 come summer) and their collective hope is to keep the place’s focus on its natural beauty, history, and laid-back living. This is coastal Maine at arguably its most pristine: jaw dropping ocean views that seem to go on forever, boats bobbing in the harbor past ridiculously cute cottages, quiet beaches, starry skies, and refreshing breezes. Most visitors reach the island via a 15-minute ferry from Portland—though if you’ve got a boat, slips are for rent at Jones Landing. Bringing a car is discouraged; the entire island is walk- or bike-able—the better to experience the island’s 3.7 mile loop that runs past rocky Cairn Beach, and historic sites like Battery Steele (the largest WWII gun battery in the country, listed on the National Register of Historic Places). Bikes are available to rent at Brad’s Bike Rental, or you can opt for a tour from the water’s view instead with the guides at Maine Island Kayak Co. Swimmers will want to head to Sandy Beach at the southwest tip of the island, which is far less rocky and has safer surf than Cairn Beach. And history buffs hungering for more after the Battery Steele shouldn’t bypass the Fifth Maine Regiment Museum, originally built as an oceanfront memorial in 1888, now full of exhibits on local history and the Civil War. What’s it like being there? Peaceful. The residents work hard to keep it things low-key. Restaurants and shops on Island Avenue are unassuming and friendly; there’s very little shopping (with the exception of gift boutiques and galleries like Take a Peak and Gem Gallery) and there’s only one official place to stay: The Inn on Peaks Island (though there are often plenty of home rentals to be found online). That’s a dramatic change from the late 19th century, when the island was a lively resort destination lined with a slew of hotels, theaters, dance halls, and amusement parks—so much so that it was known as the “Coney Island of Maine.” Three fires that occurred between 1918 and 1936 put an end to all that, and nowadays the island embraces a much slower mindset. The lure of the entire island is its natural beauty, birding, walking, kayaking, some history, and exquisite water views. Is there a guide involved? The go-to tour company for most visitors is Peaks Island Tours, which offers several different kinds of experiences from Memorial Day through Labor Day. There are specialty tours—like the “Coney Island of Maine Walking Tour”—that explores the “downfront” area’s historic heyday as an amusement destination. Another, the “WWII Military Train Walking Tour,” takes you on wooded paths and gravel roads to see the buildings and bases, bunkers and reservation area of the island’s military past. (Both of the above specialty tours need to be scheduled two weeks or more in advance, and require 12 or more participants.) Then there’s the “Spirit of Peaks Gold Cart Tour,” a kind of catch-all survey seen from an electric golf cart, delving into the development of the neighborhoods around the island, starting with the families that settled them. Guides for each tour are well-versed, happy to converse, and ready to answer questions. Who comes here? With the ferry ride from Portland just 15 minutes, Peaks attracts many day trippers, while others rent cottages for a few days or a week or two. (Camping isn’t allowed.) Most non-residents get around by foot, bike, or rent a golf cart on Island Avenue. Did it meet expectations? To witness what makes Peaks Island such a distinctive place, do one of two must-hit activities: Walk (or bike) the loop of the island and soak up its quiet calm for an afternoon, or get yourself a seat outside at the Cockeyed Gull restaurant around lunchtime. Nothing is a better window onto the way of life here than an hour of eavesdropping and people watching, with the view across Casco Bay to Portland underlining just how far away you are from mainland life. So then what, or who, do you think it’s best for? High rollers (or even just those looking to exude a high roller vibe) need not apply. Don’t come expecting to blow a wad of cash on Peaks (there’s very little that costs much, anyway) and most of the stuff that the islanders are so proud of—the quiet beaches, the views, and the breezy walks—is free." - Alexandra Hall