"Set the scene. Many people will know Oslo through the Harry Hole thrillers of Jo Nesbø, but until recently the Norwegian capital wasn’t an obvious weekend destination, with most visitors passing through on way to ski slopes or the Northern Lights. That’s started to change. While it isn’t the prettiest of cities, it’s gaining a reputation for its contemporary art, architecture—check out Snøhetta’s glacier-like opera house, and the almost-finished Munch Museum and National Library—and an intriguing foodie scene that makes ample use of the country’s incredibly fresh seafood. What’s the story? Well, this is a central landmark that dates back to 1919, when it was the square-jawed, neo-Baroque HQ of the Norwegian American Line—a time when Norwegians were jumping ship to seek their fortunes in the New World. It’s been reimagined by Nordic Hotels, which is one of the largest groups in Scandinavia but keeps a low-profile presence at the Amerikalinjen and its older sibling The Thief, the (literal) art hotel that caused a commotion when it opened in 2013. Original details have been kept intact, such as the art nouveau wooden carvings above doors and the sculptures of a sea god and spirit above the entrance, and the ground-floor space turned into a flowing segue of bar, bistro, and restaurant, as well as a glass-covered courtyard conservatory with fireplace and faux foliage. Throughout, ocean-going memorabilia such as menus and vintage snaps—look out for one of a walrus-mustached King Haakon the 7th—are gathered two by two alongside Pop Art-bright works by Shepard Fairey and Alex Katz, swarms of dangling pendant lights, and less obvious Scandinavian design classics including Torbjørn Bekken’s Veng armchair. What can we expect in our room? The rattle and hum of the occasional tram outside, the ring of bicycle bells, people-watching from a cushioned window seat. All rooms have light parquet flooring and beds of deep-sea blue, with matching velvety sofas and Scandinavian designs evident in the lamps and jaunty chairs; there are framed ocean-liner photos and menus on the walls, bedside carafes filled with filtered water. Bathrooms are neatly boxed off behind industrial-chic iron frames, with monochrome tiles and locally made Sprekenhus potions. The biggest rooms are the suites in the former company board rooms. How about the food and drink? It’s possible to graze throughout the day, with flexible menus that splice New York classics with Norwegian ingredients, from smoked-salmon bagels to deer tartare and pavlova with lingonberries, whole baked turbot and truffle mac. There are some inventive kitchens in Oslo, but the menus here play it a little safe—though it’s very fairly priced in a city where eating out can be eyewateringly expensive. Damn fine coffee too. The cocktail menu trips through historic moments for the country and the U.S—Emigration stirs up tequila with rooibos, lemongrass and wine, for example; Discovery of Oil is more martini-style, with a slick of black coconut oil floating on mushroom-and-cheese infused aquavit. What’s the crowd like? Quite a local scene at weekends—the city’s brunch scene is still in its infancy, but jazz Sundays in the bistro reels them in, with Al Green and A Tribe Called Quest on the soundsystem in between sets and eggs Norwegian on the menu. Many people may have hopped here on the boat from Copenhagen; others from London, already familiar with Stockholm and other Nordic city breaks. Anything to say about the service? Almost Fifth Avenue in its attentiveness—no need to tip the bell boy though—with plaid jackets in the bar. What’s the neighborhood scene like?The hotel is right on central Jernbanetorget Square, facing the main railway station for frictionless transfers to the airport. The square used to be Oslo’s Times Square, but has smartened up its act and while a little banal, leads easily to interesting parts of town, such as the harborfront— where the opera house, Munch Museum, and new Library are—and boho neighborhoods such as Grunerløkka. Ask the concierge to point you the way to Svanen bar, in a former pharmacy, and Katla restaurant, the new project from the former chef of foodie favorite Pjoltergeist. Walk towards sister hotel The Thief, on the Tjuvholmen island, and you’ll find enough contemporary art galleries for a weekend of browsing. Anything else to add? The basement jazz lounge, named after the shipping line’s founder, Gustav, has a regular line-up of homages to Peggy Lee, Sinatra, and other greats. Also seek out the small but perfectly formed gym—which has a punching bag and one of those rowing machines with real water—and the timber-roofed reading room, which resembles an old-fashioned railway carriage. Anything you’d change? It's a shame the jazz gigs downstairs are only on Fridays. Is it worth it? Oh, yes. Oslo’s on the rise, and this has ringside seats." - Rick Jordan
