"Any new restaurant by Donald Link is always worth getting on board with, and Chemin à la Mer instantly joins the rarified list of destination hotel restaurants in the city. Located on the fifth floor of the Four Seasons Hotel, the restaurant showcases panoramic views of the Mississippi—a waterway that, along with the Gulf, is being celebrated throughout the menu. Appetizers include delicate blue crab boulettes, which enjoy the tang of a pitch-perfect remoulade sauce, and a hearty, rustic Pâtè Grand-Mére. A selection of oysters delivers the bivalve highlights of the region. Entrees are impressively unfussy, the ingredients and flavors unfurling like sails whether its rich duck confit or flaky white fish or a chicken breast that comes with morels so good they warrant repeat visits. The wine list is expertly navigated by two of the most enthusiastic sommeliers in town, who will likely guide you to esoteric corners of the list, which boast mineral-rich whites from southern Spain and the Canary Islands (though the entire wine list is intriguing). The visual of the Mississippi River right in front of you, the aesthetics and energy of the dining room and staff, and, of course, the selection of the dishes make for an incredibly pleasing gastronomic cruise without stepping off land." - Paul Oswell
