Ammassalik Fjord

Aboard Seabourn's New Expedition Ship, Navigating the Wilds of Greenland

"Seabourn invested a reported $200 million in its first purpose-built expedition vessel, where the onboard amenities include a heated clothes-drying cabinet in every suite. I tossed my base layer, hat, and gloves into mine after our wet Zodiac iceberg tour of Ammassalik Fjord before visiting the sauna, which had views toward the mist and mountains. This was day 3 of a planned 14, and the inauguration of a pleasant routine: a taste of the near-Arctic elements, followed by the sort of pampering that those 19th-century explorers—and even today's Greenlanders, we should acknowledge—never dreamed of."