Oriole — Restaurant Review | Condé Nast Traveler
"What were your first impressions when you arrived? Executive chef and owner Noah Sandoval has a flair for elegant-yet-stripped down design. It's evident in the composition of his cuisine, but also immediately felt from the moment you walk in the door at Oriole. Traversing a nondescript West Loop alley, you emerge into a dining den defined by exposed brick and wooden beams. It exudes an almost Scandinavian sort of vibe—or hygge, if you like. What’s the crowd like? This is among the city's hottest destinations for high-end dining. In Chicago that's really saying something. So it tends to be appreciated by business types on expense accounts. Still, there are plenty of tables filled with people who refuse to take themselves too seriously. But that light-heartedness is only carried so far. Everyone, it seems, is here to appreciate the food with a palpable sense of reverence. What should we be drinking? Head straight to the wine, enlisting the help of sommelier Emily Rosenfeld. The team here has assembled one of the most thoughtful, versatile lists anywhere in the country, and she'll point you towards reds, whites, and even sakes to suit your palate and pocketbook. If you're not feeling boozy vibes, acclaimed mixologist Julia Momose has curated a zero-proof pairing menu to complement chef Sandoval's nightly creations. Main event: the food. Give us the lowdown—especially what not to miss. The two Michelin stars hanging from the wall are well-earned. A parade of small bites on the tasting menu skew towards seafood—smoked roe gracefully adorns sablefish belly; raw oysters are swathed in pork consomme; seared loup de mer is a perennial standout. All of it is rendered as high-art on the plate. But it's more than just a feast for your eyes. You won't leave here immediately in need of a deep-dish top-off. And how did the front-of-house folks treat you? The service here is a well-oiled machine; flawless coordination between front and back-of-house. It's precisely what you'd expect from a multiple Michelin-star operation. What’s the real-real on why we’re coming here? At $295 a person—exclusive of tax, tip, and wine—this is definitely a special occasion splurge. Anniversary dinner? Sure. But you're more likely to propose here, first." - Brad Japhe
