"Walk about halfway down the nondescript alley that is Ranstead Street, keeping your eyes peeled for the double “RR” logo on a black doorway. Upon entering, you’ll find a small anteroom, where a hostess carefully controls entry based on a “one in, one out” policy. If you're lucky enough to score a seat at this veteran Stephen Starr outfit, you'll be guided to a leather banquette or an alligator-print barstool in the near-pitch-black barroom, and handed a hyper-focused list of cocktails: There are spirit-forward classics (Old Fashioned, Manhattan) and funky seasonal mixtures like Pinky & the Drank, a winter-worthy blend of cognac, sloe gin, madeira, lemon, and blackberry, as well as a carefully edited list of wine and beer—just one sparkling, one white, and one red blend on offer, plus three draft and four bottled beers. You won't be disappointed by the bartenders, who consider their work a form of art. If you need a recommendation, they know the menu inside and out; alternatively, give just a few keywords and they’ll gladly whip up a bartenders’ choice." - Katie James Watkinson