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"More than just a gourmet deli, this small restaurant treats lucky diners to a feast made from the local delicacies stacked behind the counters; cheese and charcuterie platters are popular, as are crisp croquettes and the ensaladilla made here with smooth cod brandade instead of tuna. The mains are where it really shines, from a squid-ink-tinted black rice with monkfish and calamari to an "extraordinary" macaroni stuffed with meat and gratinated in cheese, and a summery esqueixada salad of shredded cod and seasonal tomatoes; the best seats are the barstools at the window where you can watch the world go by." - Isabelle Kliger