Little Beast Brewing – Brewery Review | Condé Nast Traveler
"What will see as we arrive? Approaching the eastern end of SE Division Street’s commercial core, past the seemingly omnipresent queue outside Salt & Straw ice cream shop and sausage-slinging Olympia Provisions ’ merry, fire pit-warmed patio, as the foot traffic thins and the neighborhood’s original turn-of-the-century bungalows start to reappear in the cracks between condominium buildings, a trim yellow house peeks out from behind a neatly manicured front yard—this is not someone’s darling little Southeast sanctuary, it’s your new favorite beer garden. Veer left at the taproom porch and follow the happy hum of contented Ferme Rouge and Pomme Sour sippers, seated at the tented picnic tables on the roomy patio, or on the front lawn beneath the towering elm tree. How’s the crowd? This is a relaxed group, some fans from far away, some literally neighbors—you’ll be reminded that you’re in a residential ‘hood by the “please keep voices down after 8pm” signage. Former co-founder of cult favorite Logsdon Farmhouse Ales, brewmaster Charles Porter’s reputation precedes him, so you’ll find a variety of serious saison scholars mingling with those who just want to get their session or sour ale fix on a lazy Sunday afternoon. Those who can order without looking at the menu are probably members of the brewery’s popular Guardians of Funk beer club, which opens up access to some unique and exclusive bottles as they’re released throughout the year. What kind of beer are they known for? The brewery has four excellent flagship beers, from the fresh and bright Bes tart wheat ale, brewed with Belgian malts, fruity Lemondrop hops, and chamomile flowers, to the rich and earthy Animal Family, fermented for six months in a Cabernet Sauvignon foeder (i.e. very large barrel). But be sure to try whatever seasonal specials are on tap, like the terrifically tart Pomme Sour, conditioned with fresh quince, and the luscious foeder-aged Dream State, each barrel packed with 100 pounds of whole Oregon strawberries. If there’s food, is it worth ordering something to eat? Courtesy of an in-house collaboration with longtime local chef Victor Deras’s Whim Kitchen, a brief but thoughtful menu of drinking snacks and sandwiches helps temper the effects of that second bottle of oak-aged Radical Forces. The cajun-spiced popcorn is free, but you’ll want to pony up for the smoked carrot dip, roasted cauliflower and delicata squash with salsa verde, and a meaty Italian sando, stuffed with artisan cured meats from aforementioned neighbors Olympia Provisions. If you’ve got Fido in tow, order a slice of the Puppy Loaf—a disconcertingly tempting turkey meatloaf scratch made by Fetch, a Portland-based fresh dog food company. Did the staff do you right? The staff is easy going and knowledgeable, and although these are serious beers, there’s no pretense—if you don’t know Brett from barrel-aged, can’t name so much as one craft beer microflora, and think a Belgian malt would probably be delicious with a burger, simply ask your server for advice on exactly which ales you should populate your tasting flight with, then go from there. Wrap it up: what are we coming here for? Portland has no shortage of compelling craft breweries, but this is the place for beer nerds looking for something off the beaten path both literally and beer-wise, especially if you like ferreting out those quirky sorts of spots that make you feel like you live—and drink—in the neighborhood." - Jen Stevenson
