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"Steeped in chef-owner Pim Techamuanvivit’s dedication to craft and tradition, this kitchen channels knowledge she and chef de cuisine Meghan Clark have gathered by apprenticing with women in Thailand, honoring the cooks who’ve long made these dishes. The curries—many dozens of ingredients pounded by hand each day, with flavor shaped by the exact order they’re layered into the mortar—are the most complex and fresh I’ve tasted, building flavor upon flavor, and thoughtfully swap in local ingredients here (what might be pomelo becomes local citrus); every visit reveals something I didn’t know existed." - Megan Spurrell