Huis Marseille

"Zoom out. What’s this place all about? Set inside two grand 17th-century canal houses is Huis Marseille, the oldest photography museum in the Netherlands. But don’t be fooled: Despite the building’s Golden Age heritage, with rooms featuring original marble fireplaces and 18th-century ceiling frescoes, this museum is all about contemporary photography. A museum's permanent collection is its defining feature: How was this one? Though this private museum counts 750 photographs by leading talents like Thomas Struth, Andreas Gursky, and Andres Serrano in its permanent collection, they aren't always on view. Rather, works alternate among the 14 galleries, which are largely given over to temporary exhibits by established and emerging photographers. Exhibits keep us coming back. What can we expect? Temporary exhibits, which often incorporate works from the museum’s permanent collection, change every three months—so you’ll never know what you might see. Usually, there are several shows mounted at the same time, and many are solo shows, letting you delve deeply into a particular photographer’s oeuvre. Larger exhibitions (like past retrospectives of Stephen Shore or Adam Fuss) are installed on the lower floors, where historical details—marble fireplaces, centuries-old ceiling frescoes—contrast dramatically (and dynamically) with the contemporary photography on the walls. Look for emerging artists’ work in the smaller upper galleries. What did you make of the crowd? Photography aficionados, naturally. Since the exhibitions are continually changing, the demographic depends on what’s on view. The quiet surroundings and sometimes mature subject matter doesn't make this museum particularly kid-friendly.\ On the practical tip, how were the facilities? Though the museum isn’t large, it does span across several levels, which requires a modicum of climbing. Given the historical nature of the buildings, it isn’t fully wheelchair-accessible (though a stair lift gives access to a limited number of floors). Gift shop: obligatory, inspiring—or skip it?  If you’re looking for tchotchkes, look elsewhere: the small museum shop offers a rotating selection of photography books, usually tied to one of the current or previous exhibitions. Is the café worth a stop? There is no café, but there is a coffee machine where you can pay a euro for a cup, then take it outside to enjoy on a stone bench in the museum’s pretty garden. Any advice for the time- or attention-challenged? With only 14 galleries (and some on the smaller side), this museum will have you in and out in no time." - Jennifer Ceaser