"Vast swaths of Asia are paved with wheaten dumplings, the doughy, thick-skinned staples that are the beating heart of many cuisines. And the most popular often bulge with sheep meat, be it lamb or mutton. The lamb comes from male animals that are killed for food because they can’t produce milk; the mutton from aged sheep whose wool is no longer high quality. Either way, dumplings benefit — as at this much-loved East Village Nepalese, where the dumplings contain only dough, meat, and onions, to be dipped in hot sauce and immeasurably enjoyed." - Robert Sietsema