"When chef Angie Mar flipped Les Troix Chevaux into Le B, it both embraced retro dining and paid homage to what had been the longtime restaurant she took over, the Beatrice Inn, that closed in the pandemic. Now this supper clubby restaurant offers dishes like deviled egg “en chemise” with a truffle chaud froid, a clever take on the suburban Chinese chicken salad (here called salad “Chinoise,” $28), sweetbreads a la mode, and a Dungeness crab Wellington (entrees around $50)." - Melissa McCart