"Surely Eritreans must laugh at the modern concept of ‘sharing plates’ when every meal eaten is shared from a communal ‘plate’ of injera — a large, flat ‘pancake’ made with fermented teff flour. Local favourite Adulis has been serving them generously piled with tsehbi for 23 years: highlights include awaze tibsi fitfit, a heady mix of lamb, berbere spice and niter kibbeh (spiced ghee), and dulot made with spicy beef and tripe. Vegetarian dishes are just as satisfying, and here it’s all about the hamli b’ajibo, a dish of dry cottage cheese mixed with spinach, which lends freshness and verve to any injera it graces." - Helen Graves