
3

"Situated along the Sunset Strip in West Hollywood, this glam rock hangout, previously known as the Den, feels primed to attract the in-the-know Horses crowd with strong drinks and loud rock music from the ’90s KROQ era. Early in the evening the vibe is chill, but after 8 p.m. it gets loud, sometimes even hosting after-parties for performers like SNL’s Marcello Hernandez. From chef Ben Ford and Gabriel Lindsey, alongside Gen Z operators Trae Meyer-Whalley and Simon Pompan, the menu opens with plates of potato chips and caviar-topped dip before moving into prodigious little gem salads with satsuma mandarin slices and pistachios. A French onion-style burger recalling Dudley Market and gourmet burger ancestor Father’s Office caters to protein lovers, while pan-fried Mary’s chicken in a piccata-like caper and roast garlic sauce delivers a strong, briny flavor that twenty-somethings love. Baked lumache arrives aggressively cheesy and well-browned, presented as a truffle cacio e pepe copycat of Horses’ spicy vodka pasta, and a small but satisfying sticky date cake, even tinier than a now-defunct Sprinkles cupcake, makes for a sweet finish, though much of the menu feels borrowed from the temporarily closed Hollywood restaurant Horses, which itself evoked the Spotted Pig." - Eater Staff