"This lively nook on the Ave has been an institution since Tom Suanpirintra founded it in 1994, and his spirit absolutely lives on here. The family of well-trained wok aces forge Bangkok-style classics with as much virtuosity as Suanpirintra did, expertly inciting flash-infernos from stovetops so blazingly hot they seem equipped with fighter jet afterburners. There’s so much flame, spark, and steel in the back that it looks as much like a foundry as it does a kitchen, and the ambience is unparalleled. The eyebrow-searing heat makes all the difference, imbuing each dish with a smoky char you just can’t get with weaker burners; even ubiquitous classics like pad thai and drunken noodles are a little different here. This spot only accepts cash, so come prepared." - Mark DeJoy, Eater Staff
