"Royal Seafood may only be a decade or so old, but there have been a succession of Cantonese banquet halls at this location, and the glitzy gold and red decor persists. Seating is at big communal tables as the dim sum carts roll by until early afternoon. Evening lists a menu of Cantonese and Hong Kong standards, many featuring seafood, chicken, or pork. Few places give such a good picture of Chinatown’s historic vibrancy." - Robert Sietsema