La Nacional

La Nacional in Chelsea Serves Tapas That are Even Better Than Before a Revamp | Eater NY

"After a hiatus of over two years, La Nacional has reopened in the basement of the Spanish Benevolent Society—the neighborhood anchor since 1868 of what’s known as Little Spain—returning from its earlier life as a men’s bar and social club turned tapas bar. The relaunch was conceived to host itinerant chefs who would stay in the transient rooms upstairs—the same rooms once used by Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dali—and the space has been spiffed up while retaining timeworn décor: a pixilated poster of grapes and a whitewashed fireplace enliven the front room, tables (some raised, others at normal height) have replaced old school desks, dimpled banquettes add bright red accents in the back, and a counter now lets you watch the chefs at work. Four chefs from Valencia—Jordi Morera, Salvador Boix, Gracia Sales, and Javier Parreno—were in the kitchen when we visited, and the menu is more tapas-focused than before, with four cheese and charcuterie boards, nine tapas, two rice mains, and three desserts. The tapas often thrilled: a pink-frothed gazpacho with cucumber shaved ice ($7), a creamy potato-and-egg tortilla served in wedges with allioli, gambas al ajillo ($16) with generous shrimp in olive oil (and note that bread won’t arrive unless you ask), grilled octopus on a cushion of whipped potatoes, tuna belly with avocado, wild-mushroom or ham croquetas, and pan tomaca. By contrast, the two rice mains disappointed: the paella del día ($20) seemed to be chicken and white beans rather than an exciting paella, and the arroz con secreto ibérico ($23) came across like an Italian risotto topped with strips of pork shoulder and dry shredded mushrooms. Desserts were a return to form—a dense, flavorful flan that a friend who travels often in Spain called one of the best she’d had in New York City, and a deconstructed lemon tart with sharp, perfectly executed flavors—and overall we’d say La Nacional is undeniably a better restaurant than it was previously." - Robert Sietsema