"One of the best things at Mama’s Kubo is the pancit palabok, a riotous Filipino noodle dish that poses a tricky question in the manner of the Ship of Theseus — at what point does this stop being a carbonara? Of course, there’s pancit in place of spaghetti, dried fish in lieu of parmesan’s umami, pork rind for guanciale, egg instead of tofu’s texture... But then a whole load of prawns and squid make the question redundant. Obviously, the pancit is much better." - Jonathan Nunn