"Alfonso 'Poncho' Martínez de Santo Domingo Albarradas's 'viernes de tlayuda,' or tlayuda Friday, is ushering in new era of Oaxacan street food with artisanal blue corn and yellow corn tlayudas as good as you'll find in Oaxaca City. He sources the giant tortillas from a family in Tlacolula that makes tlayudas exclusively for him, as well as his asientos, or lard. 'That’s where you get most of the flavor,' Martinez said, 'besides the tortillas.' His smoky tortillas are smeared with asiento and black beans, Oaxacan cheese, and a choice of tasajo, chorizo, and an unconventional but delicious artisanal blood sausage. After receiving the folded tlayuda, dress with it salsa, shredded lettuce, and other vegetables. It’s as if Pitao Cozobi (the Zapotec god of maize) has deemed Oaxacalifornia worthy of this blessing, of real tlayudas grilled over mesquite, just like in Poncho’s hometown of Tlacolula. It’s almost impossible to imagine getting tlayudas anywhere else in LA once you’ve had a taste of Poncho’s." - Bill Esparza