
5

"A longtime Aspen restaurant has relocated to the Denver Place Building and now centers its menu on Oaxacan specialties from moles to rellenos, with a focus on the region’s native chile varieties. Chef and owner Michael Beary, a classically trained chef who shifted away from French cuisine after falling for Oaxacan food, travels frequently to Oaxaca, has worked with local farmers for more than a decade, studies the peppers’ history and composition, and is one of the few U.S. importers of rare chiles. He spotlights each pepper individually—examples include an earthy negro chilhuacle and an Encino wood-smoked mountain pasilla—and uses them in standout dishes like dry-rubbed chicken wings, skirt steak in mole negro, and hoja santa stuffed with mozzarella and chorizo, as well as in salsas, soup broths, and along the rims of mezcal- and tequila-based drinks. The emphasis is on complex, nuanced flavors rather than extreme heat, and the restaurant is now open for lunch and dinner Monday through Saturday." - Josie Sexton