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"After completing a trilogy of beautifully designed, locally beloved North London neighbourhood restaurants, David Gingell and Jeremie Cometto-Lingenheim took something of a left turn in opening their next venture, Fitzroy, some 250 miles west. All of their signature flourishes — natural wines, small plates, gorgeous interiors — are present and correct here, but the setting, a former bank, has a high-ceilinged grandeur that compliments the more understated things happening in the glass and on the plate, and there’s something undeniably special in eating spanking-fresh seafood mere metres from the water. A more casual spinoff, North Street Kitchen, is open seasonally in an abandoned boathouse overlooking Fowey’s picturesque estuary; if it’s on the menu, the fried fish sandwich is a must-order." - George Reynolds