
95

"Beloved and widely acclaimed since opening in 2019, this Santa Monica spot from Jeremy Fox sits at the edge of the Bergamot Station Arts Center and takes its name from his daughter Birdie and grandmother Gladys. Over the years, Fox explored Midwestern, Jewish, and Eastern European cooking with ingredients from local farmers; early menus featured Texas toasts with sloppy joe–inspired beef and a Hangtown Brei — a play on a hangtown fry and matzo brei — combining eggs, matzo, wood-grilled beef bacon, fried oysters, and a spiced-up hollandaise. The menu evolved with the seasons, and today it may be best known for its herby matzo ball soup; other well-known dishes include a noodle kugel, the pickle plate served on glass trays that look straight from grandma’s house, the marbled rose petal pie, and steak frites. It became a favorite for families with its approachable kids menu and no-fuss service, and it gathered widespread acclaim, including a glowing review from Los Angeles Times critic Bill Addison." - Rebecca Roland