"The place has a boxy, cluttered quality, with a modest amount of seating scattered around a room that’s also stacked with boxes of Taiwanese noodles. But this spot turns out to be one of the best in town when it comes to the excellence and affordability of its noodles. The noodles are mainly rice and can be ordered dry or in soups, from an affable guy behind the counter who is joined in that space by an inspired cook. Priced at $7.99, the bowls offer a choice of spicy chicken, lamb, or beef. Lamb is preferred, described in the front window as “mutton vermicelli.” It’s something of a specialty of the house; order “spicy” and you get chile oil, chile flakes, and Sichuan peppercorn oil." - Robert Sietsema
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