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"In an era when Chicago’s already robust steakhouse scene is booming, it’s easy to mistake Trino for just another carbon copy. But chef Stephen Sandoval — known for his Soho House pop-up Sueños and Mexican cocktail bar Diego — and business partner Oscar Sotelo reimagine the formula at his latest West Loop venture. The steakhouse classics are unquestionably impressive: Sweet Sinaloa blue shrimp blossoms with a dip in the rojo cocktail sauce while beef tartare mixes tallow aioli, mustard, machaca, and a cured yolk for surprising depth. It’s when you stray from the expected, though, that Trino reveals its true character. Central and South American influences run throughout, from the verdant cangrejo tostada of crab, avocado, dill, Asian pear, and pistachio to the buttery empanadas stuffed with spiced lamb. That flair even extends to the beef as picanha, the prized Brazilian cut, is seared on a Vulcan plancha that mimics the heat of an Argentinian chapa, and paired with sauces like corn liqueur-spiked au poivre and pequin pepper chimichurri. It’s a break from tradition and a deeply personal project — Trino is both Stephen Sandoval’s middle name and his grandfather’s — and exactly the kind of steakhouse Chicago needs right now." - Jeffy Mai