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"Subterranean and mural‑decked, Western Yunnan Crossing Bridge Noodle—run by sister-and-brother Tara and Yong Ting Chen—is devoted to the crossing-bridge soup: mixian rice noodles cooked in steaming broth to order with tofu skin, quail eggs, Spam, pickled greens, black mushrooms, and cloud ear fungus; the menu also features vinegared cucumbers, Hmong beef jerky, and pumpkin cakes filled with bean paste." - Robert Sietsema